Supermarket Buyer: Andy Boulton, Waitrose

Demand for Aberdeen-Angus beef in Waitrose continues to grow. Chrissie Lawrence meets the man behind the buying process to see why the breed works so well for the supermarket

The Aberdeen-Angus breed suits Waitrose’s image perfectly. Regarded worldwide for its exceptional meat eating qualities as well as its hardy, low labour management characteristics, it sits alongside the supermarket’s aim of offering quality food honestly priced.

Andy Boulton, Waitrose Beef Buyer

Working with processors Dovecote Park, Waitrose take 40,000 head of Aberdeen-Angus sired cattle a year. “As we grow, supply grows,” says the store’s beef buyer Andy Boulton. A fact evident as Waitrose open another 22 stores across the UK indicating a 10% growth, a remarkable feet in this current economical climate, he adds.

Carcass specification is simple – heifers and steers under 30 months old at a maximum deadweight of 390kg. And in terms of carcass weight, it’s all about providing the right size cut of meat, he believes. “Consumers are conscious of how much red meat eat they eat and how much they spend, so it’s a balancing act between the right size cuts to ensure beef is in the shopping basket regularly rather than a one off.”

But although demand for Aberdeen-Angus sired beef remains strong and is predicted to for a good time yet, he says there is a waiting list of farmers wishing to supply the supermarket. “We pride ourselves on working with our farmers, either directly or through our processor producer groups. I’d like to think farmers get an honest and open approach from us.

“We value our farmers, something reflected in the premium prices offered, which are currently at least 10% above the standard beef price.” But beef price remains an issue for Andy.

“Beef price has risen by 30% over the last 12 months, but retail prices have only risen by 12-13%, meaning we have not passed it on tour customers.” And although Waitrose are renowned for offering a quality, premium product, Mr Boulton adds there comes a point where the customer refuses to keep paying more. Equally the customer has options for other protein products, “if you up the price on one, they’ll buy a cheaper option, it makes economic sense at the end of the day.”

With that in mind the supermarket has made conscious efforts to reintroduce cuts of meat which have lost favour over the years. Launched in October last year and given another push in January this year, the aptly named “forgotten cuts”, include cuts such as cheek, shin, feather and skirt. “Although it’s a pertinent time to be offering lower priced cuts, it was always on our agenda to bring these cuts back in to the market place. It’s all about carcass balance at the end of the day,” he explains.

“Utilising the whole carcass is not only more efficient for us, but it means the customer can be assured of higher welfare standards across all products. Not only do these cuts represent great value for money, they are also full of flavour.”

Equally, such cuts have been endorsed by many celebrity chefs, such as Jamie Oliver, Gordon Ramsey and Brian Turner. “The world of celebrity chefs has done nothing but great things for the food industry and farmers. We’ve seen sales rise off the back of a Jamie Oliver programme,” he admits.

But even in the current economic climate, it’s not just the forgotten cuts that are taking off, as Waitrose is seeing great success with their dry-aged Aberdeen-Angus beef. “Dry-ageing is an age old process for naturally tenderising beef, providing a richer flavour. Meat is hung on the bone for 21 days in a refrigerated cooler at a specific temperature and humidity,” he explains.

Sales of dry-aged Aberdeen-Angus beef have increased by 130% each year, so as a much valued product in the Waitrose portfolio, all branches will stock it by May, he adds.

So with a strong array of products available and growth predicted to continue, the man with the buying power is confident of a strong future. But, he says there are steps farmers can take to strengthen that further.

“Fat waste is a huge concern for us and although many producers have gone leaps and bounds in producing carcasses that are more in demand for the modern market, there are still issues. I’d advise every producer to visit the slaughter line and witness for themselves the grading process. It can be a huge education for those farmers who only ever see the live beast,” believes Andy.

As supermarkets we’re looking to maximise efficiency where possible, so farmers should be too.”